The Missing Middle in Natural Fiber Manufacturing

Most conversations about sustainable textiles focus on materials, certifications, or consumer demand. But the real constraint sits much earlier in the supply chain.

In this episode, Shannon Welsh, an operator working on rebuilding the natural fiber industry in Oregon, explains the structural problem facing fibers like flax, wool, and hemp. Farmers can grow the fiber, and brands want sustainable materials — but the processing infrastructure needed to prepare those fibers for manufacturing largely disappeared decades ago.

Shannon breaks down what it actually takes to rebuild that “missing middle,” from specialized harvesting equipment and scutching mills to workforce training and capital investment. Without that layer, the rest of the textile supply chain simply can’t function.